It’s a steamy afternoon in Jalisco’s Valle de Tequila when I pull up to Cantaritos El Güero in the village of Amatitlán. I had spent the morning in the agave fields of a local palenque, watching the jimadores at work. I even tried my hand at wielding a coa—a sharp, flat hoe used to cut the spines from agave plants. After such physically demanding, sweaty work, the time seemed right for liquid refreshment.

El Güero, on the dusty side of the Carretera Federal 15, has drawn crowds since opening in 1997. Yet, the sprawling open-air bar, which includes dozens of communal tables, has but one cocktail on its menu: the Cantarito. An invigorating blend of tequila, citrus juices, and Squirt, the Cantarito is traditionally served in an unglazed terracotta jug called a cántaro. Its rim is often dusted with Tajín, chamoy, salt, or all three. To balance the acidity and sweetness, salt may also be added, typically when the more saline Mexican Squirt is unavailable. At Cantaritos El Güero, bartenders fill rows of cántaros at lightning speed, garnishing the frothy concoctions with stout, extra-wide straws.

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Pragmatic Profit

While some point to the early 20th century for the drink’s creation, the exact origins of the Cantarito remain unclear. However, the regional drink does resemble two other Mexican libations, the Paloma and the Cazuela Voladora. The latter, also known as Guadalajara Punch, is essentially a freewheeling, communal Cantarito served in a bowl. Its variations may include pineapple juice, watermelon, or aguardiente.

“The Cantarito is the best of both worlds and showcases Jalisco’s tequila heritage,” says Gerardo DeAnda, owner of San Antonio’s Cuishe restaurant. “The Paloma also uses Squirt and is more tart and less complex than the Cantarito, while the Cazuela focuses on mixing juices with the tequila but lacks the effervescence.”

It’s been posited that the Cantarito evolved in Jalisco as a means of marketing tequila, which could account for its sheer ubiquity in the greater Guadalajara region, particularly in touristy areas. From the bars and restaurants of Tlaquepaque and makeshift roadside stands of Valle de Tequila to the outdoor stalls of Tequila’s Plaza Principal, a Cantarito is always within reach.

But unlike many cocktails, the Cantarito was also created to slake thirst. It’s the after-work drink of jimadores, the famed agave plantation workers of the region. And tourists, who converge on Cantaritos El Güero by the busload (or in motorized tequila barrels or giant chile peppers akin to the Oscar Mayer wienermobile) seek it out as well.

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A Worthy Vessel

On the day of my visit, it was still too early for the crowds. We had the bar largely to ourselves. The first step to ordering a Cantarito is choosing which tequila to add and what size you want. El Güero offers an array of local brands as well as cántaro sizes, the latter maxing out at 21 liters for eight people.

The vessels are more than mere aesthetics. According to DeAnda, “Clay pots, or jarritos, have been crucial in Mexican culinary tradition not just for their cooling properties but also because they contribute a distinct earthiness to beverages. That effect is especially pronounced in the Cantarito, where the natural clay enhances the overall flavor profile.”

Cántaros also need to be cured before use. Simply soak them in cold water for 10 minutes, says Janelle Benster of Renata’s Hearth at the Arizona Biltmore in Phoenix. This step hydrates the terracotta to stop it from absorbing the drink and helps the cocktail stay chilled.

The freshness and quality of the citrus and achieving balance are crucial to creating a successful Cantarito, even when the build deviates from the norm. At Renata’s Hearth, the bar team subs fresh blood orange for native Mexican, green-skinned oranges. “It’s low acid and has a subtly floral, perfume element that works really well with the lime, grapefruit, and blanco tequila,” says Benster.

She also adds a dash of kosher salt to her build. “Salt is really important here, as it enables you to taste the layers of flavor in the drink,” says Benster. Then she tops the drink with the more widely available Jarritos Grapefruit Soda and a splash of club soda, which cuts the sweetness and adds minerality to the cocktail.

While the Cantarito is understandably best enjoyed in its place of origin, DeAnda says it’s consistently the most popular drink on Cuishe’s menu. “Guests love the spectacle and communal vibe of seeing a huge Cantarito prepared and shared amongst friends. It’s not just about drinking, but the experience.”

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Cantarito

An equally refreshing take on the original, using the more widely available Jarritos Grapefruit in place of Mexican Squirt.

2 oz. reposado or blanco tequila
1/2 oz. fresh blood orange juice
1/2 oz. fresh lime juice
1/4 oz. demerara syrup (2:1)
1/4 oz. fresh grapefruit juice
1/4 oz. fresh lemon juice
Pinch of kosher salt
Jarritos or other grapefruit soda
Club soda

Tools: barspoon
Glass: Cántaro (available at Hispanic markets and online), jar, or copper mug
Garnish: Tajín-chamoy salt (find both seasonings at major grocery stores and Hispanic markets)

Dip the rim of the cántaro in lime juice, then into a shallow dish of Tajín-chamoy salt for garnish.
Add all of the liquids to an ice-filled cántaro and stir to incorporate. Top with grapefruit soda and a splash of club soda.

Janelle Benster, Renata’s Hearth, Phoenix

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